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The Bolt Anchor Replacement Fund is dedicated to preserving the safety and integrity of climbing anchors in the Lander area. Our mission is to assure that each route has strong, safe, and easy to use climbing anchors that were designed for that purpose. It is our belief that cold shuts, chains, and webbing are inappropriate anchors for climbing. The Fund’s primary goal is to be proactive, providing good anchors to first ascentionists so that their routes need not be repaired later. Additionally, volunteers use BARF anchors to replace old, worn, or otherwise poor anchors at our crags.
The hardware we have selected are Fixe Ring Anchors, based on their ease of use, durability, and the fact that each piece is safety-tested for climbing. These anchors are camouflaged and offer a small profile, with much less visual impact than chain anchors and webbing. These units are placed according to manufacturer specifications. (Ring Anchors should be placed on the same horizontal plane, 6 to 8” apart in good rock.)
In the past, climbers used simple hardware store chain as anchor hardware. This is insufficient for a good anchoring system for the following reasons:
- Chain has a high visual impact.
- Chains are not designed for this use, are not stringently tested, and their manufacturer is rarely known to the climber placing them.
- There are several possible points of failure along a piece of chain.
- The chain link at the bottom wears only in one spot, creating a need for early replacement of the anchor.
- The chain used in most anchors is not stainless steel, so the wear points corrode easily and this rust can lead to staining of the rock.
- Chains usually require that the leader untie completely from the rope to thread the anchor. Fixe rings allow the leader to stay tied in AT ALL TIMES.
The BARF is completely run by volunteer labor, and is financed by private donations and a yearly contribution from the International Climbers’ Festival. It is our sincere hope that our efforts lead to a safer and more enjoyable experience for all climbers.
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